By Air

Cancún International Airport is 16 kilometers (9 miles) southwest of the heart of Cancún City, 10 kilometers (6 miles) from the southernmost point of the hotel zone. Flying times: 3 1/2 hours from New York and Chicago, 4 1/2 hours from Los Angeles. Carriers From the U.S. Aeromexico (tel. 800/237-6639) flies nonstop from Houston, Miami, and New York. American (tel. 800/433-7300) has nonstop service from Dallas and Miami. Continental (tel. 800/231-0856) offers daily direct service from Houston. Mexicana (tel. 800/531-7921) nonstops depart from Los Angeles, Miami, and New York. From the U.K. Carriers serving Cancún on a daily basis include American Airlines (tel. 0345/789-789) via Miami and Dallas, British Airways (tel. 020/8897-4000 or 0345/222-111 outside London) from Gatwick via Miami, Continental (tel. 800/776-464) via Newark, Northwest (tel. 01293/561-000) via Detroit and Tampa, and TWA (tel. 800/222-222) via St. Louis. Within Mexico Mexicana (tel. 98/874444 or 98/860120) and Aeromexico (tel. 98/841097 or 98/843571) provide the bulk of air service within Mexico. In Cancún, Mexicana subsidiaries Aerocaribe (tel. 98/842000 downtown or 98/860083 airport) and Aerocozumel (tel. 98/842000 downtown or 98/860162 airport) offer flights to Cozumel, the ruins at Chichén Itzá, Mérida, and other Mexican destinations. Between the Airport and Town There are currently no buses allowed into the airport. The options are taxis or colectivos (vans). A counter at the airport exit sells colectivo and taxi tickets; prices range from $15 to $40, depending on the destination. The trip from airport to hotels is more expensive than the trip from hotels to airport, which ranges from $10 to $22 for taxis. Hotels post the most current rates. Be sure to agree on a price before getting into the taxi.

By Bus

The bus terminal (Av. Tulum and Av. Uxmal, tel. 98/841378 or 98/843948) downtown serves first-class buses making the trip from Mexico City and first- and second-class buses arriving from Puerto Morelos, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Chetumal, Cobá, Valladolid, Chichén Itzá, and Mérida. Public buses (Rte. 8) make the trip out to Puerto Juárez and Punta Sam for the ferries to Isla Mujeres.

By Car

Cancún is at the end of Route 180, which goes from Matamoros on the Texas border to Campeche, Mérida, and Valladolid. The road trip from Texas to Cancún can take up to three days. Cancún can also be reached from the south via Route 307, which passes through Chetumal and Belize. Driving In Mexico As in the United States, drive on the right in Mexico. The country has several well-kept toll roads-primarily of the two-lane variety. (Cuota means toll road; libre means no toll, and such roads are usually not as smooth.) However, tolls as high as 40 cents per mile can make using these thoroughfares prohibitively expensive. Some excellent new roads have recently opened, including a highway connecting Cancún and Mérida. Approaches to most of the large cities are also in good condition, and the government-sponsored Northern Border Program is cleaning up some of the ubiquitous potholes. Driving at night is not recommended and should be avoided especially in remote and rural areas because of free-roaming livestock, the difficulty of getting assistance, and the risk of banditry. Common sense goes a long way: If you have a long distance to cover, start early and fill up on gas; don't let your tank get below half-full. Allow extra time for unforeseen occurrences as well as for the trucks that seem to be everywhere. By day, be alert to animals, especially cattle and dogs. (The number of dead dogs lying beside-and in the middle of-Mexican highways is appalling.) If an oncoming vehicle flicks its lights at you in the daytime, slow down; it could mean trouble ahead. When approaching a narrow bridge, the first vehicle to flash its lights has right of way. The Mexican Tourism Ministry distributes free road maps from its tourism offices outside the country. Guía Roji and PEMEX (the government petroleum monopoly) publish current city, regional, and national road maps, which are available in bookstores; gas stations generally do not carry maps. Speed Limits Mileage and speed limits are given in kilometers: 100 kph and 80 kph (62 and 50 mph, respectively) are the most common maximums. A few of the newer toll roads allow 110 kph (68.4 mph). The speed limit in urban areas can be as low as 20 kph (12 mph). Gasoline PEMEX franchises all the gas stations in Mexico. There are few gas stations on roads in the Yucatán, so try to keep your tank filled. Stations generally do not accept U.S. credit cards or dollars. Fuel prices are the same at all stations (except near the U.S. border, where they are a bit lower) and run slightly higher than in the United States. Unleaded gas-called Magna Sin-is now available nationwide, but it's still a good idea to fill up whenever you can. Fuel quality is generally lower than in the United States and Europe. Vehicles with fuel-injected engines are likely to have problems after extended driving. National Road Emergency Services To help motorists on major highways, the Mexican Tourism Ministry operates a fleet of more than 275 pickup trucks, known as the Angeles Verdes, or Green Angels. The bilingual drivers provide mechanical help, first aid, radio-telephone communication, basic supplies and small parts, towing, tourist information, and protection. Services are free, and spare parts, fuel, and lubricants are provided at cost. Tips are always appreciated (figure $5 to $10 for big jobs, $1 to $2 for minor repairs). The Green Angels patrol fixed sections of the major highways twice daily from 8 AM to 8 PM (later on holiday weekends). If you break down, pull off the road as far as possible, lift the hood of your car, hail a passing vehicle, and ask the driver to notify the patrol. Most bus and truck drivers will be quite helpful. To reach the local Green Angels, call their toll-free hot line at tel. 91/800/903-0092. If you witness an accident, do not stop to help, but instead locate the nearest official. Border Formalities There are two absolutely essential things to remember about driving your own car in Mexico. First and foremost is to carry Mexican auto insurance, which can be purchased near border crossings on either the U.S. or Mexican side. If you injure anyone in an accident, you could well be jailed-whether it was your fault or not-unless you have insurance. Guilty until proven innocent is part of the country's Code Napoléon. Purchase enough Mexican automobile insurance at the border to cover your estimated trip. It's sold by the day, and if your trip is shorter than your original estimate, some companies may issue a pro-rated refund for the unused time upon application after you exit the country. The second item is that if you enter Mexico with a car, you must leave with it. In recent years, the high rate of U.S. vehicles being sold illegally in Mexico has caused the Mexican government to enact stringent regulations for bringing a car into the country-at great inconvenience to motoring American tourists. In order to drive into the country, you must cross the border with the following documents: title or registration for your vehicle; a birth certificate or passport; a credit card (AE, DC, MC, or V); and a valid driver's license with a photo. The title holder, driver, and credit card owner must be one and the same-that is, if your spouse's name is on the title of the car and yours isn't, you cannot be the one to bring the car into the country. For financed cars, leased cars, rental cars, or company cars, a notarized letter of permission from the bank, lien holder, rental agency, or company is required. When you submit your paperwork at the border and pay a $12 charge on your credit card, you will receive a tourist visa, a car permit, and a sticker to put on your vehicle, all valid for six months. Be sure to turn in the permit and the sticker at the border prior to their expiration date; otherwise you could incur high fines. One alternative to going through this hassle when you cross is to have your paperwork done in advance at a branch of Sanborn's Mexican Insurance (see Insurance, below); look in the Yellow Pages for an office in almost every town on the U.S.-Mexico border. You'll still have to go through some of the procedures at the border, but all your paperwork will be in order and Sanborn's express window will ensure that you get through relatively quickly. For this service Sanborn's charges $10 to those who buy insurance through the company, $25 to those who don't. The fact that you drove in with a car is stamped on your tourist card, which you must give to immigration authorities at departure. If an emergency arises and you must fly home, there are complicated customs procedures to face. Insurance Experienced and reliable sources for Mexican car insurance are Sanborn's Mexican Insurance (2009 South 10th St., McAllen, TX 78505, tel. 210/686-0711) and Instant Mexico Auto Insurance (223 Via de San Ysidro, San Ysidro, CA 92173, tel. 619/428-3583).

Getting Around

Overview

Motorized transportation of some sort is necessary, since the island is spread out. Public bus service is good and taxis are relatively inexpensive.

By Boat

The Caribbean Express and the Caribbean Miss (tel. 987/70254 or 987/70253), both air-conditioned cruisers with bar service, make several 30-minute crossings daily from Puerto Juárez, just north of Cancún, to Isla Mujeres, a small island resort offshore. Boats run from 7:30 AM to 7:30 PM at approximately 30-minute intervals; the fare is under $4 per person. There are three slower passenger ferries that leave at 7:30, 8:30, 9:30, 10, 10:30, and 11:30 AM, and on the half hour from 12:30 to 7:30 PM; the schedule varies depending on the season, so check the times posted at the dock. The one-way fare is only about $1.50 and the trip takes 45 minutes, but delays and crowding are frequent. It's possible to hire a privatelancha, or motorboat, which makes the crossing from Punta Sam, 5 kilometers (3 miles) north of Punta Juárez, in about 18 minutes. The fare is usually about $4 per person but varies: Water taxis charge a flat fee, about $20, divided by the number of passengers; a full load keeps the price low. A convenient, more expensive service, the Shuttle (Cancún, tel. 98/83448), runs directly from the Playa Tortugas dock in Cancún's hotel zone at least four times a day and costs about $15 round-trip.

By Bus

Public buses operate between the hotel zone and downtown from 6 AM to midnight; the cost is about 50 cents. There are designated bus stops, but drivers can also be flagged down along Paseo Kukulcán. The service is a bit erratic, but buses run frequently and can save you considerable money on taxis, especially if you're staying at the southern end of the hotel zone.

By Moped & Scooter

Mopeds and scooters are available throughout the island. While fun, they are risky, and there is no insurance available for the driver or the vehicle. The accident rate is high, especially downtown, which is considered too congested for novice moped users. Rates start at around $25 per day.

By Taxi

Taxis to the ferries at Punta Sam or Puerto Juárez cost $15-$20 or more; between the Hotel Zone and downtown, $8 and up; and within the Hotel Zone, $5-$7. All prices depend on thedistance, your negotiating skills, and whether you pick up the taxi in front of the hotel or go onto the avenue to hail a green city cab (the latter will be cheaper). Most hotels list rates at the door; confirm the price with your driver before you set out. If you lose something in a taxi or have questions or a complaint, call the Sindicato de Taxistas (tel. 98/88-69-85).

Car Rental

Car Rental Cars are available at the airport or from any of a dozen agencies in town, and most are standard-shift subcompacts and Jeeps; air-conditioned cars with automatic transmissions should be reserved in advance. In addition to the rental agencies below, the Car Rental Association (tel. 98/84-20-39) can help you arrange a rental as well. Rates average around $55 per day. Avis (airport, tel. 98/86-02-22; Plaza Mayafair, tel. 98/83-08-03; Royal Plaza Marina, tel. 98/85-14-48) Econo-Rent (airport, 98/86-01-71; Hotel Solymar, 98/85-18-11 ext. 5096) Hertz (9 locations; airport, 98/86-01-50) Localiza Rent a Car (Dos Playas, tel. 98/83-19-17; El Pueblito Hotel, tel. 98/83-50-89; Omni Hotel, tel. 98/81-06-00) Royal Caribe Rent a Car (Holiday Inn, Downtown, tel. 98/84-01-41) Zipp Rental Cars (Baccará Hotel, Paseo Kukulcán, 11.5 Km, tel. 98/83-20-77) Driving In Mexico As in the United States, drive on the right in Mexico. The country has several well-kept toll roads-primarily of the two-lane variety. (Cuota means toll road; libre means no toll, and such roads are usually not as smooth.) However, tolls as high as 40 cents per mile can make using these thoroughfares prohibitively expensive. Some excellent new roads have recently opened, including a highway connecting Cancún and Mérida. Approaches to most of the large cities are also in good condition, and the government-sponsored Northern Border Program is cleaning up some of the ubiquitous potholes. Driving at night is not recommended and should be avoided especially in remote and rural areas because of free-roaming livestock, the difficulty of getting assistance, and the risk of banditry. Common sense goes a long way: If you have a long distance to cover, start early and fill up on gas; don't let your tank get below half-full. Allow extra time for unforeseen occurrences as well as for the trucks that seem to be everywhere. By day, be alert to animals, especially cattle and dogs. (The number of dead dogs lying beside-and in the middle of-Mexican highways is appalling.) If an oncoming vehicle flicks its lights at you in the daytime, slow down; it could mean trouble ahead. When approaching a narrow bridge, the first vehicle to flash its lights has right of way. The Mexican Tourism Ministry distributes free road maps from its tourism offices outside the country. Guía Roji and PEMEX (the government petroleum monopoly) publish current city, regional, and national road maps, which are available in bookstores; gas stations generally do not carry maps. Speed Limits Mileage and speed limits are given in kilometers: 100 kph and 80 kph (62 and 50 mph, respectively) are the most common maximums. A few of the newer toll roads allow 110 kph (68.4 mph). The speed limit in urban areas can be as low as 20 kph (12 mph). Gasoline PEMEX franchises all the gas stations in Mexico. There are few gas stations on roads in the Yucatán, so try to keep your tank filled. Stations generally do not accept U.S. credit cards or dollars. Fuel prices are the same at all stations (except near the U.S. border, where they are a bit lower) and run slightly higher than in the United States. Unleaded gas-called Magna Sin-is now available nationwide, but it's still a good idea to fill up whenever you can. Fuel quality is generally lower than in the United States and Europe. Vehicles with fuel-injected engines are likely to have problems after extended driving. National Road Emergency Services To help motorists on major highways, the Mexican Tourism Ministry operates a fleet of more than 275 pickup trucks, known as the Angeles Verdes, or Green Angels. The bilingual drivers provide mechanical help, first aid, radio-telephone communication, basic supplies and small parts, towing, tourist information, and protection. Services are free, and spare parts, fuel, and lubricants are provided at cost. Tips are always appreciated (figure $5 to $10 for big jobs, $1 to $2 for minor repairs). The Green Angels patrol fixed sections of the major highways twice daily from 8 AM to 8 PM (later on holiday weekends). If you break down, pull off the road as far as possible, lift the hood of your car, hail a passing vehicle, and ask the driver to notify the patrol. Most bus and truck drivers will be quite helpful. To reach the local Green Angels, call their toll-free hot line at tel. 91/800/903-0092. If you witness an accident, do not stop to help, but instead locate the nearest official.